If you’ve spent any time around guinea pig owners online, you’ve probably seen the letters “C&C” thrown around like everyone just knows what they mean. The first time I clipped one of these together on my living room floor, I understood the hype instantly — suddenly my piggies had room to actually run, popcorn, and zoom around instead of shuffling in a cramped pet-shop box. C&C cages are the cavy community’s favorite home for one simple reason: they give your guinea pigs far more space for far less money than almost anything you can buy off a shelf.
Quick answer: A C&C cage (“Cubes & Coroplast”) is a build-it-yourself guinea pig home made from metal grid panels clipped together around a corrugated-plastic base. The cavy community loves it because it’s bigger, cheaper, and fully customizable. A 2×4-grid C&C gives about 10.5 sq ft — the ideal size for a bonded pair.
Last reviewed and updated for 2026 — covers what C&C cages are, the size you need, a full build walkthrough, costs, store-bought comparisons, and the safety checks that matter most.
This is the complete beginner’s guide to C&C cages. By the end you’ll know exactly what to buy, how big to go, how to put one together in an afternoon, and how to keep it safe — even if you’ve never built anything in your life. Let’s dig in.
Table of Content
What is a C&C cage?
C&C stands for Cubes and Coroplast — the two parts you build the cage from. It’s a modular, open-top guinea pig enclosure that the cavy community designed to fix the biggest problem with shop-bought cages: they’re almost always far too small.
- Cubes (the grids): Square metal wire panels — the same kind sold as wire storage-cube shelving. Each grid is roughly 14 inches (36 cm) square, with 9 holes across and 9 down. You clip them together to form the walls.
- Coroplast (the base): Corrugated plastic sheeting — the lightweight, waterproof material used for outdoor signs. In the UK it’s often sold as “correx”. You fold it into a shallow tray that sits inside the grids and holds the bedding, so all the mess stays contained.
Put simply: the grids make the walls, and the coroplast makes a leak-proof floor with low sides. That’s the whole concept. The magic is that because everything is modular, you can build almost any size or shape you like — and add to it later.
Why C&C cages are so popular
Walk into any guinea pig forum or rescue and you’ll hear the same advice over and over: go C&C if you can. Here’s why owners and rescues are so devoted to them.
- Space. This is the big one. Guinea pigs need a lot more floor room than people realise, and C&C makes large cages affordable. A standard 2×4 build comfortably clears the recommended minimum for a pair.
- Cost. A roomy C&C cage usually costs less than a tiny pet-shop cage of half the size. You’re buying simple materials, not a branded plastic box.
- Customization. Square, L-shaped, with a kitchen area, a hay corner, a covered hidey nook — you decide the layout. Try doing that with a fixed cage.
- Expandability. Adopt a third piggy? Bonded a new pair? Just clip on more grids and cut a bigger coroplast tray. The cage grows with your herd instead of being thrown away.
- Easy cleaning & ventilation. The open top and low sides mean great airflow and quick spot-cleaning — far easier than reaching into a hooded plastic cage.
What size C&C cage do you need?
Size is where C&C really earns its reputation. The welfare minimums most rescues and the RSPCA point to are about 7.5 sq ft (0.7 m²) for a single guinea pig and about 10.5 sq ft (1 m²) for a pair — and remember, guinea pigs should always be kept in pairs or groups because they’re highly social. More space is always better; these are floors, not goals.
The lovely thing about C&C is that the grid sizes map neatly onto those numbers. Because each grid is ~14 inches, the layout tells you the floor area at a glance.
| Grid layout | Interior size (approx.) | Floor space | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2×3 grids | 27″ x 41″ (69 x 104 cm) | ~7.5 sq ft | 1 guinea pig (bare minimum) |
| 2×4 grids | 27″ x 56″ (69 x 142 cm) | ~10.5 sq ft | 2 guinea pigs (recommended) |
| 2×5 grids | 27″ x 69.5″ (69 x 177 cm) | ~13 sq ft | 3 guinea pigs |
| 2×6 grids | 27″ x 82.5″ (69 x 210 cm) | ~17 sq ft | 3–4 guinea pigs |
For most families with two piggies, the 2×4 is the sweet spot — it hits the 10.5 sq ft pair recommendation and still fits along a wall. If you can stretch to a 2×5 or bigger, your guinea pigs will thank you with happy zoomies. A single-level cage is perfectly fine; an added loft is a nice bonus but never counts toward the floor-space minimum. For a deeper breakdown of how much room each piggy really needs, see our full guide to guinea pig cage size.
What you need to build one
You don’t need to be handy, and you don’t need power tools. Here’s the full shopping list for a basic single-level C&C cage:
- Wire grids (cubes). Sold as wire storage-cube or grid shelving sets. Count what your layout needs (a 2×4 needs roughly 14 grids for the walls). Check the holes: safe grids have 9 squares across and 9 down, with each opening under 1.5 inches (3.5 cm). Grids with bigger 4×4 or 5×5 openings are a trap-the-head hazard — avoid them.
- Coroplast / correx sheet. A 4 mm corrugated-plastic sheet for the base tray. A craft store, signage shop, or online seller will have it; buy one large enough for your floor plus the sides.
- Connectors. The plastic clips that join the grids. Most grid sets include them, but buying a few spares never hurts.
- Cable ties (zip ties). Cheap, essential reinforcement — they stop the walls flexing and lock corners together far more securely than connectors alone.
- Tools: a sharp craft/Stanley knife or strong scissors for the coroplast, a ruler or tape measure, and a roll of clear packing tape.
Prefer not to source the bits yourself? Several brands now sell ready-made C&C-style kits with everything pre-cut and matched — names like GuineaDad and Kavee are popular, and dedicated C&C cage companies sell full kits too. You pay a bit more than a pure DIY build, but it’s hassle-free and still far roomier than a typical pet-shop cage.
How to build a C&C cage (quick steps)
Start to finish, a basic build takes most people under an hour. Here’s the short version:
- Plan your footprint. Decide the layout (e.g. 2×4) and measure the spot where it’ll live so it fits with room to open the lid or reach in.
- Build the grid walls. Clip the grids together with the connectors to form a rectangle two grids deep and four grids long. Push everything snug.
- Reinforce with cable ties. Zip-tie every corner and along the top edges. This is the step beginners skip and regret — it turns a wobbly frame into a solid one. Snip the tail ends flush.
- Measure your coroplast. Measure the inside floor of the frame, then add about 12 inches to both the length and the width — that extra 6 inches per side becomes the walls of your tray.
- Score and fold. Lightly score (don’t cut through) the fold lines with your knife, then bend the four sides up to form a shallow box about 6 inches high.
- Tape the corners. Fold the corner flaps and secure them with packing tape on the outside only, so your guinea pigs can’t chew it.
- Drop it in and finish. Set the coroplast tray inside the grids, add bedding and accessories, and you’re done. Want a loft, ramp, or lid? Clip on more grids the same way.
C&C vs store-bought cages
Should you build or buy? Both can work, but they’re suited to different people. Here’s an honest side-by-side.
| Cage type | Space | Cost | Setup effort | Customizable | Look |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| C&C cage | Excellent — easily 10.5+ sq ft | Low for the space you get | Some assembly (under an hour) | Fully — any size or shape | Simple/DIY (depends on you) |
| Store-bought cage | Usually too small | High per sq ft | None — out of the box | Fixed; what you see is what you get | Tidy, finished |
The honest takeaway: most pet-shop cages are simply too cramped for guinea pigs — many are little more than a glorified litter tray. If you want a finished look with zero assembly and you’re willing to pay more per square foot, a large purpose-built cage can still do the job. If you want maximum space for your money and the freedom to expand, C&C wins. Compare the best ready-made options in our roundups of the best guinea pig cages and large guinea pig cages.
C&C cage safety tips
C&C cages are very safe when built properly — but a few details really matter, especially for younger pigs. Run through this checklist before your piggies move in.
- Mind the grid holes for babies and small pigs. Young guinea pigs (and some petite adults) can poke their head through a grid and get stuck. Either use narrow-spacing 9×9 grids and line the lower part of the cage — tape coroplast or cardboard about 9 inches high around the inside walls until babies grow up (roughly past the 9-month mark).
- No unguarded second-level drops. If you add a loft, fit a high railing or grid sides so a piggy can’t tumble off the edge. Guinea pigs have fragile spines and don’t judge heights well.
- Add a secure lid if you have cats or dogs. The open top is great for airflow, but in a home with other pets, clip a grid lid on top and zip-tie it so it can’t collapse inward.
- Always a solid coroplast floor — never wire. Standing on a wire floor causes painful bumblefoot (pododermatitis). The coroplast base under deep bedding is exactly what their feet need.
- Reinforce the structure. Cable-tie corners, lofts, and lids so nothing flexes or falls. A few pennies of zip ties prevent the most common C&C accidents.
Setting it up inside
An empty cage is just the shell — what goes inside is what makes your guinea pigs feel at home. Once the frame and tray are ready, add the essentials.
- Bedding. Lay down a deep, absorbent layer. Paper-based bedding and fleece are the two community favorites — never use non-kiln-dried cedar or pine, which can harm the lungs. See our best bedding for guinea pigs guide, or go reusable with fleece bedding (a perfect match for a flat coroplast floor).
- Hideouts. Every piggy needs at least one cozy place to retreat — ideally one per pig plus a spare. Browse the best guinea pig hideouts for ideas.
- Hay, water, and food. Unlimited hay, a water bottle or bowl, and a heavy food bowl. A hay rack near a corner keeps things tidy.
Where you place the finished cage matters too — out of direct sun and drafts, in a room that stays around 65–75°F (18–24°C). For the full picture on layout, accessories, and placement, head to our complete guinea pig cage setup guide, the pillar that ties all of this together.
Frequently asked questions
Are C&C cages safe?
Yes — when built correctly, C&C cages are very safe and are recommended by rescues worldwide. Use grids with small openings (under 1.5 inches), a solid coroplast floor (never wire), reinforce corners and any loft with cable ties, and baby-proof the lower walls for young pigs until they’re grown.
How much does a C&C cage cost?
A basic 2×4 DIY C&C cage typically costs roughly $40–$80 / £35–£70 in materials, depending on where you source the grids and coroplast. That’s usually cheaper than a much smaller store-bought cage. Ready-made branded kits cost more but save you the sourcing and cutting.
Can you put a C&C cage on carpet?
Yes. The coroplast tray is fully waterproof, so it protects the carpet from spills and bedding. For extra peace of mind you can slip a cheap plastic sheet, splash mat, or old towel underneath. Many owners place the cage on a low stand or table to keep it off the floor entirely.
Do C&C cages need a lid?
Not always. Guinea pigs rarely climb out of standard 14-inch-high walls, so an open top is fine in a piggy-only room. You do want a secure grid lid if you have cats or dogs, curious young children, or a multi-level cage where a determined pig might reach the top.
How big should a C&C cage be for two guinea pigs?
Aim for at least a 2×4-grid cage, which gives about 10.5 sq ft (1 m²) — the recommended minimum floor space for a pair. Bigger is always better, so a 2×5 or 2×6 is excellent if you have the room.
Can baby guinea pigs use a C&C cage?
Yes, with a little extra care. Babies can squeeze their heads through grid openings, so line the inside walls with coroplast or cardboard about 9 inches high until they’re fully grown (around 9 months). After that, the lining can come off.
Related Guinea Pig Guides
- Guinea Pig Cage Setup: The Complete Housing Guide
- What Guinea Pig Cage Size Is the Best?
- Best Guinea Pig Cages
- Large Guinea Pig Cages
- Best Bedding for Guinea Pigs
- Best Guinea Pig Hideouts
- How to Clean a Guinea Pig Cage
List of Sources
RSPCA — Guinea pig environment and housing
Guinea Pig Cages — Cage Size Standards (cavy community)